How to Varnish Wood

 

 MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A CLEAN AREA TO WORK IN:

  Remember - dust WILL settle on varnish. It's just a matter of how much, so make sure your area is as clean as possible. 

 

 Don't sand in the room where you'll be varnishing (at least for a few hours).

Applying two or three coats of varnish to your wood is usually enough.

Weather affects application.

Lay your pieces flat to avoid runs and sags.

 If you can't lay everything pretty much flat, you may have to consider another finish (or go with polyurethane which is often made to dry much faster). Also, ask your supply store about faster drying varnishes they may have.

  You should talk to your supply store anyway. Let them know what you are using the varnish for, and they can often help choose the right kind (not always though - make sure you've got a good sales rep). We always have good luck with Sherwin-Williams in our shop.

You want the finish to dry slow enough so that bubbles don't form, but not so slow that tons of dust settle in your finish. The ideal temperature is 70 F. Below 60, it could potentially take days to dry, above 90 it actually dries too quickly to apply the finish well with a brush. It also just might leave bubbles in the finish. To reduce this effect, thin the varnish when temperatures are too warm. This is good to know when you are learning how to varnish wood. Thinner varnish dries more slowly. Slower drying time allows the bubbles to "pop" out, or escape.

  Remove sanding dust with a tack cloth.

 Apply a coat of full strength varnish (or thinned 10% - 20% if you prefer). After making sure that coat is fully cured (your fingernail won't leave an impression) scuff this and consecutive coats with 320 or finer grit sandpaper. You can also use a Scotch Brite-Pad. We don't advise using steel wool. Steel wool fibers can be caught in your finish, and you won't even see them. Over time, they may cause orange looking or dark spots on your piece because, if water or water-vapor comes in contact with the steel, it will actually rust. Again, remember your final coat must go with the grain, and do not scuff it. You can "rub" the final coat out, but make sure you practice on a piece first and follow the manufacturer's directions regarding rubbing finish out. When days are cold and damp - try not to varnish. It will take much longer for the varnish to dry. Having an even longer drying time for varnish isn't good because more dust will settle into your finish, etc.

Be sure to use a good quality natural bristle brush when applying varnish.

HOW TO VARNISH WOOD - TIPS BEFORE YOU BEGIN:

 Wet-mop the floor before you apply varnish. It's a pain, but well worth the time. 

 Put clean paper under your work.

 Make sure your brush is clean.

 Wipe your wood surface with a tack cloth. 

 HOW TO VARNISH WOOD - STEPS OF APPLICATION:

Scuff (sand lightly) with 220 or finer grit sandpaper. Use stearated (self-lubricated) sandpaper. Stearated sandpaper won't clog as soon as regular sandpaper.

  Apply a sanding sealer or a thinned varnish (50% mineral spirits - paint thinner) for a first coat. You're first coat should be thinned to make sure it cures hard. When you are brushing varnish, you can go with or against the grain, all but for the final coat, then you must go with the grain.

  

   

 

Allow the piece to dry at least overnight, or as long as needed to ensure it is completely dry and fully cured.

After making sure that coat is fully cured (your fingernail won't leave an impression) scuff this and consecutive coats with 320 or finer grit stearated sandpaper. You can also use a Scotch Brite-Pad. We don't advise using steel wool. Steel wool fibers can be caught in your finish, and you won't even see them. Over time, they may cause orange looking or dark spots on your piece because, if water or water-vapor comes in contact with the steel, it will actually rust. Dust with tack cloth.

Apply a coat of full strength varnish (or thinned 10% - 20% if you prefer). Again, remember your final coat must go with the grain, and do not scuff it.

You can "rub" the final coat out with wax, but make sure you practice on a piece first and follow the manufacturer's directions regarding rubbing the finish out. Burnish the finish after waxing with a dry soft cloth.

Happy Finishing!!